The big protein flex: How urban Indians can't have enough of it

By Pooja Pillai

The big protein flex: How urban Indians can't have enough of it

Milk, ice cream, kulfi, idli batter, bread, chips and cookies - everything comes with a pinch of protein. Growing awareness about nutritional science and a push by FMCG firms has led to a flood of protein-enriched products. But are we eating the right protein?

FOOD, THESE days, isn't just food. Refracted through the looking-glass world of fitness videos and weight-loss reels, it fragments into abstract little bits, nutrients that are invoked like magic formulae: Eat fewer carbs to tackle bloating; more fibre for greater satiety; and 'good' (unsaturated) fats for hormone regulation.

The message seems to be that food may be for eating, but it is nutrients that make us healthier, stronger, more alert and attractive. In this nutrient-obsessed world, there are few things that are as loaded with these implications as protein, which now makes an appearance in everything from post-workout shakes and smoothies to sliced bread, burger patties and ice cream.

'Protein-led' and proud

For India, where carbohydrates -- typically from rice, wheat and millets -- have long formed the scaffolding on which a meal is built, the sharpening focus on protein has largely been a market-led response to growing interest in nutritional science.

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The vanguard of this movement is formed by protein supplements -- typically whey-based products used to make post-exercise drinks for recovery. For long associated with massive jars featuring images of heavily muscled men, protein supplements (primarily powders) have evolved to be less intimidating in recent years. Many of these are now plant-based (pea, soy and rice being the most widely used sources), with attractive flavours such as watermelon, matcha, chocolate-mint and cold coffee. Products by brands such as Cosmix, The Whole Truth, Oziva and Tru Nativ target non-traditional consumers, especially women, and are seen as an easy way to meet protein requirements.

Take the case of banker-turned-content creator Shrima Rai, 43, for whom the protein powder consumed after workouts -- besides more fish, chicken and dal -- was key to losing the weight she gained during her pregnancy. "My emotions were dictating what I ate, and I was addicted to caffeine," Rai says. Then, after her son started going to playschool and, with the extra time on her hands, she joined a strength training programme, a decision that got her to rethink her diet. She now watches - and weighs - what she eats, ensuring that she gets 100 g of protein daily.

The growth in the number of consumers such as Rai, who are open to fulfilling their requirements by including a protein-loaded scoop of specially formulated supplements everyday, is one of the most striking ways in which India's protein market has changed.

Another remarkable development is in the response of brands to those who remain wary of formulations and supplements. Akshali Shah, Executive Director of Parag Milk Foods which launched its performance nutrition brand Avvatar for whey protein products in 2017, notes that a demand once led by fitness enthusiasts and athletes is now a surge driven by a more diverse set of consumers, "from young professionals and health-focused parents to older adults."

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Parag's portfolio now includes such products as high-protein paneer and Greek yogurt. Shah says, "Demographically, millennials and Gen Z are at the forefront (of the demand). They are digitally savvy, brand-aware and willing to invest in their health. Interestingly, we are also seeing strong adoption among women, especially mothers seeking nutritious options for their families. Additionally, middle-aged and older adults are tuning into the importance of protein for muscle maintenance and vitality."

The flood of "protein-enriched" or "protein-led" milk and milk products -- including ice cream and kulfi -- dosa/idli batter, bread, chips and cookies caters to a vast section of exactly these kinds of consumers. Dairy giant Amul entered the space in 2022 with products such as protein lassi and protein kulfi. Last December, Karnataka Milk Federation's Nandini brand launched a protein-infused idli-dosa batter, followed in January by iD Fresh Food's protein-rich batter. Fast-food chains are joining in too -- McDonald's introduced a "protein slice" in July, a vegetarian cheese-like slice developed with Central Food Technological Research Institute (CFTRI), Mysuru, that's priced at Rs 15 and claims to deliver 5 g of protein. The company says it "sold 32,000 slices within 24 hours, delivering roughly 160,000 grams of plant-based protein across West and South India".

SuperYou, co-founded by actor Ranveer Singh and entrepreneur Nikunj A Biyani last December, started with protein wafers, later adding protein chips and, most recently, a fermented yeast protein powder. "We have been seeing 15 per cent month-on-month growth, and have sold over 10 million protein wafers and over 2 million protein chips," shares Biyani.

If a "beginner" wants to know about their protein options, they should be able to indulge that curiosity without feeling that they are in over their heads or paying too much, explains Enakshi Dasgupta, Head of New Business and New Product Development at iD Fresh Foods.

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"Brands like ours can offer a range (of products) which is not obnoxiously expensive," she says, "(we are) trying to democratise protein in a way by offering protein-rich options without changing the food habits of customers." The Bengaluru-based company offers a variant of its flagship idly and dosa batter, "enriched with protein" from pea, soy and brown rice.

Among those adopting the new protein-led products is Mumbai-based PR professional Hurlene Kharbanda, 38, who realised her eating habits were in desperate need of a reboot when she was diagnosed with "stomach migraine". After a three-month gut-cleansing course prescribed by her nutritionist, Kharbanda took a hard look at her plate and reformulated her meals to prioritise a diversity of nutrients, including protein.

Her diet today is a modernised version of the food she grew up eating: khichdi packed with vegetables, jowar chapatis, chaas fortified with sattu, and even a lighter, protein-rich pav bhaji with paneer instead of potatoes. "Before you ask -- yes, it's still delicious," she smiles. Small swaps -- from protein-rich curd to a chocolate protein bar when indulging -- keep her on track.

The numbers back this trend: India's protein market is projected to touch USD 1.52 billion in 2025 and grow to USD 2.08 billion by 2030, at a compounded annual growth rate of 6.5 per cent, according to a report by market research company Mordor Intelligence.

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The protein-sized hole in our plates

"Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants." The formula developed by Michael Pollan, author of The Omnivore's Dilemma, for anchoring our eating habits in common sense is not necessarily revolutionary in a society like ours that does indeed eat food -- the kind that is real, home-cooked, and didn't come out of a factory. With a significant proportion of Indian food coming from plants -- even if a majority also consumes milk/milk products, meat, fish/seafood and eggs -- only a fraction of the population habitually eats the "too much" food that Pollan warned against.

Yet, the shifting winds of nutrition science, raised to gale-force by the confident claims of social media influencers ("aim for 0.8 to 1.2 gm of protein per kg of bodyweight"), are increasingly shaping attitudes here too.

A July 2025 report by the Ministry of Statistics and Programme Implementation (MoSPI) shows daily per capita protein intake has gone up over the past 15 years -- from 59.3 g in 2009-10 to 61.8 g in 2023-24 in rural areas, and from 58.8 g to 63.4 g in urban areas during the same period.

While these figures suggest that Indians' protein consumption is close to ICMR-NIN's adult Recommended Dietary Allowances (RDA) of 0.83 g/kg/day for high-quality protein (that works out to an average of 54 g of protein per day for a 65 kg adult), experts say the story of India's protein deficiency lies more in the quality of protein consumed.

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According to the MoSPI data, Indians have been gradually shifting towards eggs, fish and meat, but their biggest source of protein continues to be cereals such as wheat, rice etc (46.9% in rural India and 38.8% in urban India). Therein lies the problem. While cereals contain protein, they lack the essential amino acids required for balanced nutrition.

Dr Bharati Kulkarni, Director, ICMR-National Institute of Nutrition (ICMR-NIN), says, "When protein is measured only in crude grams, adequacy seems higher than it really is. But once adjusted for digestibility and amino acid composition, the proportion of children and pregnant women meeting their requirements drops sharply. This means predominantly cereal-based diets supply enough protein quantity but lack quality. This underscores the need to improve the quality of protein in Indian diets. Including sources of high-quality protein in diets (pulses, dairy, eggs, meat, fish) is key to closing these gaps."

Prof. Monika Arora, vice-president research, Public Health Foundation Of India (PHFI), calls it a "protein paradox" - "where protein is valued but not sufficiently consumed, is driven by affordability, cultural food practices, and an uneven supply of pulses, milk, eggs, and meat".

It's what makes nearly 70 per cent of Indian adults "protein deficient", says Dr Sridevi Annapurna Singh, Director of the Mysuru-based CFTRI. "Our children are definitely protein deficient. If you compare them to their cousins in Western countries, you'll notice they are shorter in height, and that comes down to the quality of protein."

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Dr K Srinath Reddy, Distinguished Professor at the Public Health Foundation of India, on the other hand, hesitates to make what he says would be a "sweeping statement" about India being protein deficient. "Rather, I would say that some groups in India are not getting the right amount and the right quality of protein. These groups specifically include children from low-income households. Even elderly people from poor families can be seen with protein deficiency," he says.

ICMR-NIN's Dr Kulkarni says women are often at the deep end of this protein inequity. "Within families, women, especially young mothers, are most affected due to unequal food allocation, as they often eat last and least, further deepening protein inequity... Hierarchical structures or nutritional misconceptions restrict access to protein-rich foods, even with increased needs during puberty, pregnancy etc."

Good protein, bad protein

Yet, not everyone sees the ongoing "protein push" as a silver bullet to solve the problem of protein deficiency. "Protein supplements are unnecessary. It prevents you from taking a balanced diet," says Dr Reddy, adding that one's body doesn't only need protein but a composite diet with balance of nutrition. "A natural diet also provides a lot of phytonutrients (bioactive compounds that contribute to health by acting as antioxidants, anti-inflammatories, and antimicrobials), which are essential."

The FMCG sector's "high-protein" push also raises several public health concerns. "These products are often ultra-processed, high in sugar, sodium, fat, non-caloric sweeteners or additives, with inconsistent quality and labeling oversight, and are priced for middle- and upper-income consumers, risking widening dietary inequities," notes Arora.

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She says, "From a public health perspective, such products may complement diets for a limited urban population but cannot address India's protein gap at scale. Sustainable solutions require policy reforms that prioritise affordable, culturally acceptable protein sources -- such as pulses, eggs, and milk -- integrated into safety-net programmes, school feeding, and nutrition education to ensure equitable, population-level impact."

One of the most affordable sources of protein is dairy, insists R S Sodhi, President, Indian Dairy Association. "A glass of 200 ml milk costs Rs 12 and gives 7 g of protein. This means, it's protein per gram for less than Rs 2, whereas it costs anywhere between Rs 5-7 to get one gram of protein through a supplement," he says.

ICMR-NIN's Dr Kulkarni goes on to emphasise that "protein supplements are not needed for healthy individuals".

"Yes, there is concern about the growing popularity of protein powders and bars due to limited awareness about their proper use and potential consequences. A balanced and diverse diet, whether vegetarian or non-vegetarian, provides enough good quality protein, without the need for supplements. The marketing of these products largely focuses on muscle building, often overlooking the importance of overall health through balanced diets," she says.

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Which brings us back to common sense, the long-priced underdog of the race to become healthier, fitter versions of ourselves. In his 2007 essay 'Unhappy Meals', where he laid out his manifesto for eating -- including the formula quoted earlier in this article -- Michael Pollan also warned of the dangers of "nutritionism" and the unexamined assumptions that drive the belief that the only way to understand food is through the lens of nutrition. The same food -- the same nutrients, to put it another way -- can be processed differently by two people depending on any number of factors, from geography and genes to gut flora, he reminds. So then, the next time you sit down to eat, as Pollan says, simply eat food. Not too much.

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