Well-Traveled: Aspen, Steamboat, Breckenridge, and Vail

By Christine Perez

Well-Traveled: Aspen, Steamboat, Breckenridge, and Vail

Despite being 350 miles from the nearest ski resort, Dallas is home to one of the most active ski clubs in the country. Formed in the 1950s, it has 600 members and hosts six trips a year, along with non-ski trips in the summer and monthly happy hours. I spent a week with the club earlier this year in Aspen -- the one destination that has a perennial spot on the DSC's annual schedule.

It's easy to see why; with four resorts, Aspen offers something for everyone. Buttermilk is terrific for first-time skiers, beginners, and those who feel like cruising some greens and easy blues. Aspen Mountain, also known as Ajax, is on the other end of the spectrum; it's the only resort in the country with zero beginner trails. Aspen Highlands is also known for its challenging terrain -- especially the Highland Bowl. (To get there, you must hike to the summit of Highland Peak.) Most visitors flock to Snowmass. With 91 downhill trails, it's larger than the other three mountains combined and a great place for groups of varying proficiencies.

Of the four, Aspen Highlands was favored by my boyfriend, an expert skier. I liked Snowmass best. We were fortunate to have a couple of days with fresh powder, and the skiing was incredible. Pro tip: Don't miss the chance to take a Poma lift to Cirque and ski at 12,510 feet. It's other-worldly.

For accommodations, the ski club took over The Gant, a 140-unit condo resort that celebrated its 50th year last year. The condos are cozy and comfy, and the resort is within walking distance of downtown shops and eateries. Our favorite restaurant in Aspen by far was West End Social, where the Bauhaus decor was just as delightful as the craft cocktails, scrumptious desserts, and flavorful entrees on the ever-changing menu.

We had kicked off our "ski Colorado four ways" mission a few weeks earlier with a visit to Steamboat Springs, an Old West town that's surrounded by ranches and the Yampa Valley. Visibility issues and unseasonably cold weather took the fun out of our first day on the slopes, but day two brought gloriously blue skies, fresh snow, and extraordinary conditions.

Steamboat is ideal for intermediates and has a very family-friendly atmosphere. It's also renowned for having some of the best tree skiing in North America -- it's phenomenal -- and is one of just a handful of Colorado resorts that offers night skiing.

Steamboat is ideal for intermediates and has a very family-friendly atmosphere. It's also renowned for having some of the best tree skiing in North America -- it's phenomenal -- and is one of just a handful of Colorado resorts that offers night skiing.

It's easy to get out and about in Steamboat, with its robust public transport system. While there, be sure to have at least one meal at Yampa Valley Kitchen. It's one of three local eateries from gifted restaurateur Hannah Hopkins, who also runs Mambo and Bésame. The beef stroganoff I had for dinner was spectacular, as was the Waldorf salad starter. And don't even get me started on the profiteroles (cream puffs with vanilla bean gelato drenched in chocolate sauce).

The third stop on our tour took us to Breckenridge. For the first two nights, we stayed at One Ski Hill Place, a lovely slopeside resort at the base of Peak 8 that provides access to four chairlifts and the BreckConnect Gondola, which runs to and from downtown.

The ski area is huge, with 2,900 skiable acres, 187 trails, and four terrain parks. Breck's five peaks, numbered from 6 to 10, each have their own personalities. Take some time to study the trail maps in advance and plot out your plan.

With perfect weather and powdery snow, I was having a blast on our first day of skiing, but it was cut short by a high-speed wipeout that led to a concussion. The sole benefit was that the doctor's "no skiing" orders gave me a chance to explore the charming mountain town the next day and take a snowcat tour at Breckenridge Nordic Center.

It was beyond cool to ride in a state-of-the-art Prinoth Snowcat and get a tour from the center's founder, Gene Dayton, who has been promoting Nordic skiing since 1969. The tours meander through peaceful cross country trails and offer views of wildlife habitats and a stop at a historic mining cabin.

Meanwhile, my boyfriend worked on his bump skiing at nearby Keystone, known for its moguls, expansive terrain park, and five bowls. Last season, Keystone opened a new lift that provides access to an additional 550 acres in Bergman Bowl and the more advanced Erickson Bowl.

For the last half of our Breckenridge adventure, we stayed downtown at The Carlin, a home on historic Main Street that has four lodging suites above a fine dining restaurant and underground tavern. Both the service and the food were exceptional at The Carlin, which specializes in elevated coastal cuisine and has an expansive raw bar.

The next evening, we walked across the street to Rootstalk, whose owner Matt Vawter won a 2024 James Beard award for Best Chef: Mountain region. When we dined there, Vawter had not yet won the award. Hearing about it later, I was not surprised. The Sesame Cake alone (toasted rice and buckwheat crumble, caramel, ginger apples, and black sesame ice cream) gives a hint of the chef's creativity.

Other restaurants we enjoyed while in Breck were Hearthstone, located in a home that's more than 125 years old and featuring hearty standouts like Colorado rack of lamb, blackberry elk, and Creekstone Ranch beef filet; and Breckenridge Distillery, which features steaks from Fitch Ranch, including picanha, as well pork-focused appetizers like smoked pork belly buns and crispy pork rinds. (Note: Hearthstone features Breckenridge Distillery products in its desserts, including a maple bourbon crème brûlée.)

Our final ski trip of the season was to Vail, a place that has been an annual destination for my boyfriend for decades. Having an experienced personal guide on hand was a big plus at the massive resort, which has 5,300 acres of skiable terrain, including the seven Legendary Back Bowls. Do not miss the chance to explore them. Their vastness will take your breath away.

A personal Vail favorite is Big Rock Park at Blue Sky Basin, the bowl furthest to the back. The peaceful, gladed blue run winds through natural groupings of trees, and, depending on which ways you choose to go around them, you can have different experiences every time you ski down. To get to Big Rock Park, take the intermediate Cloud 9 from Skyline Express (lift 37).

From the top of Skyline Express or Earl's Express (lift 38), you can also access Belle's Camp, the farthest outpost on Vail Mountain. You can warm up with a hot chocolate, enjoy other snacks, and take in stunning views, all from the top of Blue Sky Basin. (Just don't expect luxuries like running water in the bathrooms.)

Along with some of the best skiing you'll ever experience, there are two expansive amenity centers at the base -- Vail Village and Lionshead -- with hundreds of shops and restaurants. Two of our favorites are Montauk Seafood Grill in Lionshead (entrees range from seared ahi tuna and BBQ Scottish salmon to miso Chilean sea bass and pecan-crusted Idaho ruby trout) and Vendetta's Pizza in the heart of Vail Village (delicious pies with funny menu names, like Snow Pig and Billy Bob's Brain).

Take time to wander around Solaris Plaza in Vail Village, and stop off at The George for aprés ski (a locals hangout near the center's famous covered bridge that's the closest thing you'll find to a dive bar in all of Vail). And don't forget to stop in at 10th Mountain Spirits for a bottle of Aspenglow, a sage-infused peach-vanilla cordial to bring home. Trust me.

Like Breckenridge, Vail is one of the ski areas closer to Denver -- about a 90-minute drive or shuttle ride away -- so the lift wait times can sometimes get a little long. Try to avoid visiting on holidays and the weekends and, once on the slopes, get to the higher and further reaches early on.

On our journey back to Texas, we spent a final night in Denver at Halcyon, part of Dallas-based Makeready's portfolio. Located in the upscale Cherry Creek neighborhood, it features A-plus touches (such as Jonathan Adler bath products and Lavazza coffee makers) and a gear room that's stocked with everything from board games to Piaggio scooters.

Before heading to the airport the next morning, we had breakfast at Local Jones. The griddled banana bread and crispy bacon gave us just the fortification we needed to get out and on our way home.

A final tip: No matter which Colorado ski destination you choose, see if the resort offers complimentary mountain tours -- especially if it's your first visit. Typically, a guide will assess your skills and ski with you around the area, offering invaluable tips on which runs to try, which lifts to avoid, and more. The hour or two you invest will have a big payoff.

Marijke Lantz Flowers was 3 years old when she first learned how to ski. Growing up in Georgetown, a tiny mountain town about an hour west of Denver, she made frequent visits to all the major Colorado destinations. "I've skied every year of my life except for when I was pregnant," she says. "It's my happy place."

A black-diamond skier, Flowers prefers runs that are "steep and straight." About 22 years ago, she began looking for a vacation home in Colorado; she selected Steamboat Springs. She liked the area's "champagne powder" snow and that it has a lower base elevation (about 6,700 feet) compared to other resorts. Because its northern Rockies location is farther away from Denver, it doesn't get the day crowds that flock to other resorts that are closer in, she says.

A self-described "foodie," Flowers says she and her husband love Café Diva at the base of the mountain. ("It's fine dining, but you don't have to dress up," she says.) They also love the fresh pastas and other Italian fare at Mambo, E3 Chophouse for steaks, and Yampa River Icehouse for Texas-style barbecue. Flowers offers a pro tip for visitors: "The locals will ski hard then visit the nice restaurants for the great happy hour prices," she says.

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