If our cell phones buzz around 6 p.m., it is most likely our son, Ben, texting us a video of our 2 1/2-year-old granddaughter eating dinner.
She is, in fact, an amazing eater, and she even likes things that 2-year-olds really shouldn't, like kimchi. When she wasn't quite yet two, we took her to Barney Greengrass in Manhattan, and while we expected her to like the potato pancake with applesauce, we were surprised that she kept asking for more chopped liver, more whitefish salad, and even sucked the juice from the pickles. Ben reported recently that her teachers at day care noticed that she refuses to eat the plainer lunch offerings, and once even asked one of her teachers if she could have her jerk chicken instead. And the teacher traded with her!
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In the most recent video, she had asked to taste lemon -- as in a piece of lemon, all by itself. Her lips puckered, she shuddered, and then she wanted for more! I decided that meant it was time to dust off one of my old favorites, cutlets in a white wine and lemon sauce, to make for her the next time she visits.
This is another one of my versatile recipes, where you can add or subtract ingredients to your taste. Personally, I enjoy veal cutlets, but I know not everyone does. Furthermore, because veal is not a very popular meat, it can be expensive, and what is available to the household consumer (as opposed to restaurants) is not always the best quality. No problem, though, as this works just as well with chicken. Use chicken tenders, or cut boneless, skinless breasts in half horizontally and pound to 1/4 - 1/2 inch thickness. If you have a full-service butcher, they can probably do this for you. In addition, the amount of meat given in the recipe is a wider range than typical, because I want to make sure readers know they can use whatever size package they find in the store -- within reason, of course!
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Lemon and white wine form the flavor foundation of this recipe. I usually use shallots, but if I have none, finely chopped onion works, too. Sometimes I add sliced shiitake mushrooms, capers, or fresh herbs such as sage or rosemary. A glug of heavy cream at the end makes it feel fancier, and yet it's a quick dish that can be made on a weeknight.
WHITE WINE LEMON CUTLETS
Serves 2-4, depending on amount of meat
INGREDIENTS
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus a pinch
Few grinds pepper
12-20 ounces veal, chicken cutlets, or chicken tenders (see note below)
2 tablespoons butter (if avoiding dairy, use all olive oil)
2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
1 shallot (or 1/2 small onion), finely minced
4 ounces shiitake mushrooms, sliced (optional)
1/2 cup white wine
Juice and zest of 1/2 lemon
1 tablespoon capers, drained (optional)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary or sage
1/4 cup heavy cream (if avoiding dairy, use chicken stock or water)
Note: I've made this with packages ranging from approximately 12 ounces to 20 ounces. The meat-to-sauce ratio will differ, but the amounts here have worked for me. Feel free to increase the liquid ingredients in the same proportions if you want more sauce. If buying boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut in half horizontally and pound to a thickness of ¼-½ inch, or ask your butcher to do it for you.
DIRECTIONS
Place the flour, cornstarch, ½ teaspoon salt, and pepper in a shallow baking dish and mix to combine. Dredge the cutlets or tenders in the flour mixture and pile to one side of the baking dish.
Heat the butter and olive oil (or all olive oil) in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat until the butter is melted. Add the shallots, and mushrooms if using, with a pinch of salt and sauté. If just using shallot, it will take 1-2 minutes to become translucent. Otherwise, cook until the mushrooms are soft and beginning to brown on the edges.
Place the dredged cutlets or tenders in the pan to brown. Try not to add more olive oil unless absolutely necessary. Cook for 2-3 minutes per side. Chicken tenders are sometimes thicker and may need the full 6 minutes. Remove the meat to a plate.
Pour in the wine to deglaze the pan, then add the lemon juice, herbs, capers (if using), and lemon zest, and stir to combine. Pour in the cream and lower the heat to a simmer. Return the meat to the pan and allow to simmer in the sauce for 2-3 minutes.
Serve immediately, garnishing with a sprig of whatever herb you used and pieces of lemon peel, if desired.